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Key Points: How To Choose Korean Cosmetics
Skin type is the main thing to rely on when choosing facial cosmetics. Cosmetologists highlight 4
skin type:
normal;
oily;
dry;
combined.
The type depends on the structural features of the skin, is genetically established and never changes. Even the skin suddenly becomes drier or oily, this means a change not in the type, but in the condition. Often elevated greasy shine, peeling, dryness, tightness indicate a dehydrated skin condition. Also to conditions include problem skin, sensitive, fading. Sometimes among the states are distinguished pigmented and damaged skin. The condition is also taken into account when choosing care: exists special cosmetics for problem skin, sensitive, etc.
If your skin is in one of the conditions, it becomes more difficult to determine the type. For example, oily dehydrated skin can look like dry skin. But the next two tests will help you identify your skin type with maximum precision.
Test # 1. Visual
Take a close look at your face in the mirror. Pay attention to the pores - they are enlarged or narrow and inconspicuous? Is there an oily sheen, black dots? Does your skin look tight or thin and vulnerable? Compare the characteristics of your skin with the characteristics of different types.
Normal skin - the pores are narrow, there are few or no blackheads, there is no oily sheen, no dryness or tightness, the tone of the face is even.
Dry skin - the pores are almost invisible, there is never an oily sheen, the skin is thin to the touch, possible tendency to irritation, rosacea, frequent redness, after washing it can be felt tightness.
Oily skin - wide pores and greasy shine all over the face, there is a tendency to blackheads and inflammation, the skin is dense, not susceptible to rosacea, the tone is uniform.
Combination skin - enlarged pores in the area of the nose and forehead (T-zone), oily sheen also in this areas, cheeks are drier, without wide pores and shine.
This is the most common skin type.
Test #2. Using a napkin
This test is less accurate than the visual test. However, it also exists. When testing only one criterion is evaluated - the intensity of the sebaceous glands.
For the test, you will need a regular thin napkin. Apply it tightly to your face and leave it on for 5-10 minutes.
Before the test, it is recommended not to apply any care products and not to wash your face for 3 hours or more.
When you take off the napkin, see if there are greasy marks on it?
If the napkin looks greasy at all points of contact with the face, then your skin is oily.
If traces remained only on those areas that were adjacent to the T-zone, then your skin type - combined.
If the wipe is completely dry, then you have dry or normal skin.
skin type:
normal;
oily;
dry;
combined.
The type depends on the structural features of the skin, is genetically established and never changes. Even the skin suddenly becomes drier or oily, this means a change not in the type, but in the condition. Often elevated greasy shine, peeling, dryness, tightness indicate a dehydrated skin condition. Also to conditions include problem skin, sensitive, fading. Sometimes among the states are distinguished pigmented and damaged skin. The condition is also taken into account when choosing care: exists special cosmetics for problem skin, sensitive, etc.
If your skin is in one of the conditions, it becomes more difficult to determine the type. For example, oily dehydrated skin can look like dry skin. But the next two tests will help you identify your skin type with maximum precision.
Test # 1. Visual
Take a close look at your face in the mirror. Pay attention to the pores - they are enlarged or narrow and inconspicuous? Is there an oily sheen, black dots? Does your skin look tight or thin and vulnerable? Compare the characteristics of your skin with the characteristics of different types.
Normal skin - the pores are narrow, there are few or no blackheads, there is no oily sheen, no dryness or tightness, the tone of the face is even.
Dry skin - the pores are almost invisible, there is never an oily sheen, the skin is thin to the touch, possible tendency to irritation, rosacea, frequent redness, after washing it can be felt tightness.
Oily skin - wide pores and greasy shine all over the face, there is a tendency to blackheads and inflammation, the skin is dense, not susceptible to rosacea, the tone is uniform.
Combination skin - enlarged pores in the area of the nose and forehead (T-zone), oily sheen also in this areas, cheeks are drier, without wide pores and shine.
This is the most common skin type.
Test #2. Using a napkin
This test is less accurate than the visual test. However, it also exists. When testing only one criterion is evaluated - the intensity of the sebaceous glands.
For the test, you will need a regular thin napkin. Apply it tightly to your face and leave it on for 5-10 minutes.
Before the test, it is recommended not to apply any care products and not to wash your face for 3 hours or more.
When you take off the napkin, see if there are greasy marks on it?
If the napkin looks greasy at all points of contact with the face, then your skin is oily.
If traces remained only on those areas that were adjacent to the T-zone, then your skin type - combined.
If the wipe is completely dry, then you have dry or normal skin.
There are 10 stages in the Korean skin care system. It may seem like a lot and difficult.
But in reality, all the grooming takes 15-20 minutes a day. Some steps only need to be followed 1-3 times a week, others are required daily. Once you understand this system and try,
then you will understand how convenient and logical it is. And most importantly - efficiently!
Stage 1. Makeup removal
Objective: to cleanse the skin of makeup, including foundation or BB cream, powder, concealer, etc.
All foundations contain pigments that do not wash off with water. Therefore, the gel or foam for washing will not cope - you need a separate make-up remover.
What to use: Hydrophilic Oil, Cleansing Cream, Milk, Hydrophilic Balm, Sherbet.
Such products are oil-based and completely dissolve decorative cosmetics. To remove other water-based products can be applied to eye and lip makeup.
When and how to do it: On the days you wear makeup or sunscreen. Creams with
SPF can also be washed off only with makeup remover products. Apply oily products to dry
skin. After a short massage, you need to add a little water - then the oil emulsifies and becomes white. After 1-2 minutes, completely rinse off the residue with water Then you can go to next step of care.
Stage 2. Water purification
Objective: to cleanse the face of makeup residues, hydrophilic oil, sebum, and others pollution.
What to use: Cleansing Foam, Gel, Enzyme Powder.
When and how to do it: every morning and evening. Foam or gel must first be foamed hands or a special mesh sponge. Enzyme powder is diluted with water and applied directly to the face.
After cleansing, the product is thoroughly washed off.
Stage 3. Exfoliation (peeling)
Objective: to remove dead cells. The skin is continuously renewed - keratinized cells separated from the epidermis and deposited on the surface. With a large accumulation of dead scales, the skin
thickens, clogged pores, increases the risk of rashes.
What to use: soft scrub, peeling roll, gommage, peeling pads, peels based on Aha, Bha, Pha acids.
When and how to do it: once a week. If you use a scrub, peeling roll or gommage, massage the skin with exfoliating particles for 1-2 minutes. Peeling pads are easy enough wipe your face alternately with both sides of the disc. Acid peels are applied to the specified
the manufacturer for the amount of time and washed off with water.
Stage 4. Toning
Objective: to moisturize the skin and restore ph-balance after cleansing. Running water dries up skin and "draws" moisture from the epidermis. Without toning, the skin quickly becomes dehydrated.
What to use: toner, mist, softner, skin. These are all names of the same product for different Korean brands.
When and how to do it: every day after washing. You can apply toner with a cotton pad or with your hands. When applied by hand, the product is consumed more economically.
Stage 5. Essence
Objective: to moisturize the skin and correct the condition. Essences are considered complementary care.
They are recommended for girls with very dry or dehydrated skin in order to better moisturize and nourish the epidermis. Also, depending on the composition, the essence can work with other problems - acne, pigmentation, wrinkles.
When and how to use: depending on how you feel, the essence can be used as twice a day, and only in the evening. If the essence does not leave stickiness and is quickly absorbed, it will be comfortable in the morning care. Denser nutrients are best left for the night ritual of beauty.
Stage 6. Serum
Objective: to eliminate the existing shortcomings. The peculiarity of serums is that they contain active components in high concentration. Beneficial substances penetrate deep into the skin and solve such problems like rashes, irritation, age spots, signs of aging, rosacea.
When and how to use: like the essence, the serum can be applied either twice a day, or only once. It is also permissible to combine two different day / night serums. Cosmetologists it is recommended to use serums in courses throughout the month. After a month of daily application should be interrupted for a month or the serum is changed to another.
Step 7. Indelible mask
Objective: to quickly improve the appearance of the face, hide imperfections. With regular use, the mask give a cumulative effect and help get rid of various shortcomings.
What to use: Cloth, alginate or hydrogel mask. All these masks do not require rinsing, and therefore applied after the serum. If the mask needs to be washed off after application, it appears immediately after the stage of cleansing or toning.
When and how to apply: 1 to 3 times a week. Depending on the recommendations of the mask manufacturer you need to keep it for 5-20 minutes.
Stage 8. Eye contour care
Objective: to moisturize the skin, prevent aging, remove existing wrinkles. Skin in the area the eyes are thinner than the rest of the face and are naturally more sensitive. Therefore, it needs separate remedies.
What to use: eye cream as a basic care product, patches and serums as additional products.
When and how to apply: Eye cream should be used on clean skin in the morning and evening. If you are when using a serum, distribute it over the eye area to the cream. When applying, try do not stretch delicate skin. The patches are applied 1-3 times a week after cleansing, usually in morning care.
Stage 9. Completion of skin care
Task: to consolidate the action of previous products, moisturize the skin, protect against negative factors, correct the state.
What to use: face cream or emulsion. Once a week in the evening instead of cream, you can use a night mask, but not more often.
When and how to carry out the stage: daily in the morning and in the evening. You can use two different creams in day / night care.
Stage 10. Sun protection
Task: to protect the skin from the effects of solar radiation - photoaging, age spots, cell mutations.
What to use: sunscreen, BB cream with SPF and other products with UV filters.
When and how to use: in the morning care 10-20 minutes before going outdoors or before applying makeup. Sunscreen should be applied to all exposed areas of the skin, including the neck, neckline, hands.
But in reality, all the grooming takes 15-20 minutes a day. Some steps only need to be followed 1-3 times a week, others are required daily. Once you understand this system and try,
then you will understand how convenient and logical it is. And most importantly - efficiently!
Stage 1. Makeup removal
Objective: to cleanse the skin of makeup, including foundation or BB cream, powder, concealer, etc.
All foundations contain pigments that do not wash off with water. Therefore, the gel or foam for washing will not cope - you need a separate make-up remover.
What to use: Hydrophilic Oil, Cleansing Cream, Milk, Hydrophilic Balm, Sherbet.
Such products are oil-based and completely dissolve decorative cosmetics. To remove other water-based products can be applied to eye and lip makeup.
When and how to do it: On the days you wear makeup or sunscreen. Creams with
SPF can also be washed off only with makeup remover products. Apply oily products to dry
skin. After a short massage, you need to add a little water - then the oil emulsifies and becomes white. After 1-2 minutes, completely rinse off the residue with water Then you can go to next step of care.
Stage 2. Water purification
Objective: to cleanse the face of makeup residues, hydrophilic oil, sebum, and others pollution.
What to use: Cleansing Foam, Gel, Enzyme Powder.
When and how to do it: every morning and evening. Foam or gel must first be foamed hands or a special mesh sponge. Enzyme powder is diluted with water and applied directly to the face.
After cleansing, the product is thoroughly washed off.
Stage 3. Exfoliation (peeling)
Objective: to remove dead cells. The skin is continuously renewed - keratinized cells separated from the epidermis and deposited on the surface. With a large accumulation of dead scales, the skin
thickens, clogged pores, increases the risk of rashes.
What to use: soft scrub, peeling roll, gommage, peeling pads, peels based on Aha, Bha, Pha acids.
When and how to do it: once a week. If you use a scrub, peeling roll or gommage, massage the skin with exfoliating particles for 1-2 minutes. Peeling pads are easy enough wipe your face alternately with both sides of the disc. Acid peels are applied to the specified
the manufacturer for the amount of time and washed off with water.
Stage 4. Toning
Objective: to moisturize the skin and restore ph-balance after cleansing. Running water dries up skin and "draws" moisture from the epidermis. Without toning, the skin quickly becomes dehydrated.
What to use: toner, mist, softner, skin. These are all names of the same product for different Korean brands.
When and how to do it: every day after washing. You can apply toner with a cotton pad or with your hands. When applied by hand, the product is consumed more economically.
Stage 5. Essence
Objective: to moisturize the skin and correct the condition. Essences are considered complementary care.
They are recommended for girls with very dry or dehydrated skin in order to better moisturize and nourish the epidermis. Also, depending on the composition, the essence can work with other problems - acne, pigmentation, wrinkles.
When and how to use: depending on how you feel, the essence can be used as twice a day, and only in the evening. If the essence does not leave stickiness and is quickly absorbed, it will be comfortable in the morning care. Denser nutrients are best left for the night ritual of beauty.
Stage 6. Serum
Objective: to eliminate the existing shortcomings. The peculiarity of serums is that they contain active components in high concentration. Beneficial substances penetrate deep into the skin and solve such problems like rashes, irritation, age spots, signs of aging, rosacea.
When and how to use: like the essence, the serum can be applied either twice a day, or only once. It is also permissible to combine two different day / night serums. Cosmetologists it is recommended to use serums in courses throughout the month. After a month of daily application should be interrupted for a month or the serum is changed to another.
Step 7. Indelible mask
Objective: to quickly improve the appearance of the face, hide imperfections. With regular use, the mask give a cumulative effect and help get rid of various shortcomings.
What to use: Cloth, alginate or hydrogel mask. All these masks do not require rinsing, and therefore applied after the serum. If the mask needs to be washed off after application, it appears immediately after the stage of cleansing or toning.
When and how to apply: 1 to 3 times a week. Depending on the recommendations of the mask manufacturer you need to keep it for 5-20 minutes.
Stage 8. Eye contour care
Objective: to moisturize the skin, prevent aging, remove existing wrinkles. Skin in the area the eyes are thinner than the rest of the face and are naturally more sensitive. Therefore, it needs separate remedies.
What to use: eye cream as a basic care product, patches and serums as additional products.
When and how to apply: Eye cream should be used on clean skin in the morning and evening. If you are when using a serum, distribute it over the eye area to the cream. When applying, try do not stretch delicate skin. The patches are applied 1-3 times a week after cleansing, usually in morning care.
Stage 9. Completion of skin care
Task: to consolidate the action of previous products, moisturize the skin, protect against negative factors, correct the state.
What to use: face cream or emulsion. Once a week in the evening instead of cream, you can use a night mask, but not more often.
When and how to carry out the stage: daily in the morning and in the evening. You can use two different creams in day / night care.
Stage 10. Sun protection
Task: to protect the skin from the effects of solar radiation - photoaging, age spots, cell mutations.
What to use: sunscreen, BB cream with SPF and other products with UV filters.
When and how to use: in the morning care 10-20 minutes before going outdoors or before applying makeup. Sunscreen should be applied to all exposed areas of the skin, including the neck, neckline, hands.
It is known that many components, simultaneously present in one or another agent, can create a "chemical conflict" with each other. Strict rules for combining components include the following:
- components should not reinforce each other;
- components should not neutralize each other's action (as a result of which they will not exhibit their properties at all);
- the ingredients should not have the opposite effect (for example: healing and exfoliation, or exfoliation).
What components cannot be combined with each other?
Do not combine retinol with AHA acids (most often fruit acids, lactic, mandelic acid).
AHA acids cannot be combined with essential oils
In this case, there is no control over the action of the acid, that is, the acid can increase or decrease its action (depending on its molecular weight). Uneven acid application may also occur (in the case of peeling).
It is impossible to combine proteins (peptides) with acids
Care must be taken that such components as paraffin, wax, silicone and peptides are not combined in one product.
Since peptides are a shortened form of proteins (molecularly small and lightweight), they are designed for deep penetration. In a product with dense substances that act as protectors (that is, on the contrary, do not allow certain "conditionally light" substances and components to penetrate), the work of peptides will be ineffective.
You cannot combine acids and alcohol.
This tandem causes skin irritation, destruction of the hydro-lipid mantle.
Do not combine scrubs and enzyme peels with acids
In this case, there will be double damage to the skin: mechanical (due to the scrub) and through the action of acids.
Lauryl sulfate is a component that is used in foaming products (such as foams and cleansing gels). It should not be combined with acids. That is, in home use, after cleansing the skin in the composition with lauryl sulfate, you cannot use lotions with acids.
Niacinamide (aka vitamin B3 and PP, niacin) is not recommended to be combined with oils, paraffin and silicones, since it is a water-soluble vitamin, that is, it is active in its aqueous phase. In combination with paraffins, silicones and oils, it will be ineffective, there will be no result.
What does Vitamin C do and does not work with?
Vitamin C in the composition of products is stable and unstable.
Unstable vitamin C (ascorbic acid) does not work when exposed to oxygen and sunlight, that is, there is no point in using it during the day.
The stable phase of vitamin C (eg magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) will no longer be degraded by sunlight - it can be covered with sunscreen and used during the day.
When it comes to oxygen-containing masks and creams, it is recommended to combine them with the stable phase of vitamin C (that is, in the "ascorbil" format).
What products can / cannot be applied before / after retinol?
Retinol (Vitamin A) is not compatible with AHAs, sulfur and zinc.With this combination, you can get dermatitis, skin irritation, and burns (since acids enhance the effect of retinol).
Before using products with retinol, it is necessary to exclude the use of all types of peels at least two weeks in advance. Also, after using products with retinol, it is necessary to stop using phenol (carbolic acid) for six months and peelings for at least two weeks.
What does niacinamide work with and what is it not suitable for?
The history of the discovery of this component was constantly updated, so you can find it under other names: vitamin B3, PP, niacin. This component is involved in the metabolism of carbohydrates and lipids, due to which it has a large number of properties.
Niacinamide is also involved in redox reactions, that is, it can prevent damage to structural proteins (prevention of skin aging).
Since niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a water-soluble vitamin, its combination with heavy oily structures, silicone, wax is undesirable.
Best of all, niacinamide combines with the components of the lipid layer of the skin and the natural moisturizing factor of the skin - these are hyaluronic acid, urea, unsaturated fatty acids.
It is not correct to combine niacinamide with AHA acids in a product if the product is used as a reducing agent.
If a product in a composition with niacinamide is used to prevent pigmentation, prevent aging, then it can be combined with acids in the composition.
What components are ideal for each other?
Components that have common properties and also prolong the action of each other are ideal for each other.
That is, if a regenerating product is used, then it is important to combine components that protect and soften the skin without destructive ingredients (that is, acids, for example).
For a lifting effect, an ideal combination would be a pair of low molecular weight acids and water-soluble vitamins (C, B1, B2, B3 (PP), B6, B12).
Suitable combinations would be: AHA acids or retinol with Omega 3-6, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, peptides and Omega 3-6.
- components should not reinforce each other;
- components should not neutralize each other's action (as a result of which they will not exhibit their properties at all);
- the ingredients should not have the opposite effect (for example: healing and exfoliation, or exfoliation).
What components cannot be combined with each other?
Do not combine retinol with AHA acids (most often fruit acids, lactic, mandelic acid).
AHA acids cannot be combined with essential oils
In this case, there is no control over the action of the acid, that is, the acid can increase or decrease its action (depending on its molecular weight). Uneven acid application may also occur (in the case of peeling).
It is impossible to combine proteins (peptides) with acids
Care must be taken that such components as paraffin, wax, silicone and peptides are not combined in one product.
Since peptides are a shortened form of proteins (molecularly small and lightweight), they are designed for deep penetration. In a product with dense substances that act as protectors (that is, on the contrary, do not allow certain "conditionally light" substances and components to penetrate), the work of peptides will be ineffective.
You cannot combine acids and alcohol.
This tandem causes skin irritation, destruction of the hydro-lipid mantle.
Do not combine scrubs and enzyme peels with acids
In this case, there will be double damage to the skin: mechanical (due to the scrub) and through the action of acids.
Lauryl sulfate is a component that is used in foaming products (such as foams and cleansing gels). It should not be combined with acids. That is, in home use, after cleansing the skin in the composition with lauryl sulfate, you cannot use lotions with acids.
Niacinamide (aka vitamin B3 and PP, niacin) is not recommended to be combined with oils, paraffin and silicones, since it is a water-soluble vitamin, that is, it is active in its aqueous phase. In combination with paraffins, silicones and oils, it will be ineffective, there will be no result.
What does Vitamin C do and does not work with?
Vitamin C in the composition of products is stable and unstable.
Unstable vitamin C (ascorbic acid) does not work when exposed to oxygen and sunlight, that is, there is no point in using it during the day.
The stable phase of vitamin C (eg magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) will no longer be degraded by sunlight - it can be covered with sunscreen and used during the day.
When it comes to oxygen-containing masks and creams, it is recommended to combine them with the stable phase of vitamin C (that is, in the "ascorbil" format).
What products can / cannot be applied before / after retinol?
Retinol (Vitamin A) is not compatible with AHAs, sulfur and zinc.With this combination, you can get dermatitis, skin irritation, and burns (since acids enhance the effect of retinol).
Before using products with retinol, it is necessary to exclude the use of all types of peels at least two weeks in advance. Also, after using products with retinol, it is necessary to stop using phenol (carbolic acid) for six months and peelings for at least two weeks.
What does niacinamide work with and what is it not suitable for?
The history of the discovery of this component was constantly updated, so you can find it under other names: vitamin B3, PP, niacin. This component is involved in the metabolism of carbohydrates and lipids, due to which it has a large number of properties.
Niacinamide is also involved in redox reactions, that is, it can prevent damage to structural proteins (prevention of skin aging).
Since niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a water-soluble vitamin, its combination with heavy oily structures, silicone, wax is undesirable.
Best of all, niacinamide combines with the components of the lipid layer of the skin and the natural moisturizing factor of the skin - these are hyaluronic acid, urea, unsaturated fatty acids.
It is not correct to combine niacinamide with AHA acids in a product if the product is used as a reducing agent.
If a product in a composition with niacinamide is used to prevent pigmentation, prevent aging, then it can be combined with acids in the composition.
What components are ideal for each other?
Components that have common properties and also prolong the action of each other are ideal for each other.
That is, if a regenerating product is used, then it is important to combine components that protect and soften the skin without destructive ingredients (that is, acids, for example).
For a lifting effect, an ideal combination would be a pair of low molecular weight acids and water-soluble vitamins (C, B1, B2, B3 (PP), B6, B12).
Suitable combinations would be: AHA acids or retinol with Omega 3-6, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, peptides and Omega 3-6.
INCI Beauty - Analysis of cosmetic products
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.incibeauty&hl=en_US&gl=US
https://apps.apple.com/be/app/inci-beauty/id1276113963
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.incibeauty&hl=en_US&gl=US
https://apps.apple.com/be/app/inci-beauty/id1276113963